Panthenol (pro-Vitamin B5)

    Panthenol (also called pantothenol) is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), and is thus a provitamin B5. Panthenol enhances skin barrier repair through reducing TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) and inflammation, and improving skin hydration (Fig. 1, 2, 3).

　 This active also leads to increased mobility of the stratum corneum (SC) molecular components (i.e., both lipids and proteins). It can be used to retain the high skin permeability of a hydrated membrane at reduced hydration conditions, which otherwise would lead to reduced flux due to dehydration induced molecular rigidity of the SC barrier components. This finding is explained by retained molecular mobility of SC at dehydrating conditions in the presence of panthenol (Fig. 4).

 

 

 

 

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) 5%

   Niacinamide is an essential water-soluble vitamin B3, which is not synthesized in the body, meaning we have to eat it to receive its benefits. Additionally, the vitamin has been incorporated into skincare products since our bodies don't produce it on their own.

　Topical niacinamide has the following effects1 (Fig. 5) :

 

 1. Reinforces skin barrier function

　Niacinamide (2%) increase epidermal production of skin barrier lipids (e.g., ceramides) and also skin barrier layer proteins and the precursors (keratin, filaggrin, involucrin), leading to the observed enhancement of skin barrier function as determined by reduced TWEL (transepidermal water loss).

   The ceramides in the skin keep the lipid layer and epidermal barrier intact which ensures that we retain moisture and suppleness within the skin (2) (Fig. 6, 7).

 

2. Promotes a brighter, younger-looking appearance

   Skin pigmentation results in part from the transfer of melanized melanosomes synthesized by melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes.

   Niacinamide can inhibit melanosome transfer and induce skin lightening.

   Topical application of Niacinamide (4% or 5%) resulted in a dose-dependent and reversible reduction in hyperpigmented Lesions (3,4,5,6) (Fig. 8, 9).

 

3. Visibly reduces pore size and sebum excretion

　 A component of poor facial skin texture is enlarged pores. As topical Niacinamide improved texture, a possible mechanism could be reduction in sebum excretion, which may translate into

   smaller pore size. Dysregulation of sebum can result in excessively oily skin and subsequently more acne lesions. Having a good balance of oil and moisture within acne-prone skin is an important component for controlling the acne. Niacinamide suppresses sebaceous lipogenesis of human sebocytes via activating hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor 2 (HCA2) (7) (Fig. 10).

   Niacinamide (2%) inhibits sebum production, specifically affecting the content of triglycerides and fatty acids. This may contribute to the observed reduction in skin pore size and thus improved skin texture (a component of texture being enlarged pores (8) (Fig.11, Table 1,2,3).

 

4. Prevents acne and acne scars

  　Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties and improves acne. Niacinamide can reduce the overall inflammatory response, resulting in fewer pimples, and has been shown to effectively treat mild-to-moderate non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne as well as hormonal acne due to its exfoliating and antibacterial properties. In addition, Niacinamide Mitigates Inflammation Induced by Environmental Stressors in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (9).

 　In Shahmoradi, et al. study, they evaluated possibly more potent 5% Niacinamide gel instead of usual 4% concentration and in contrast to the previous studied they compared this compound with 2% clindamycin gel instead of 1% clindamycin gel. 5% Niacinamide gel is as effective as 2% clindamycin gel for treatment of mild to moderate acne vulgaris. No side effect was observed during the treatment (10) (Table 4,5).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Koji Sophora Japonica Flower Extract Ferment

　This active, patented by Ciracle, is Sophora Japonica Flower extract that is fermented with Aspergillus. As an antimicrobial agent, it inhibits the growth of acne bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acne.

 

 

 

1. Proksch, E., de Bony, R., Trapp, S., & Boudon, S. (2017). Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28(8), 766-773.

2. Stozkowska, Wieslawa., & Piekos, Ryszard. (2004). Investigation of some topical formulations containing dexpanthenol. Acta Pol Pharm, 61(6), 433-437.

3. Björklund, S., Pham, Q. D., Jensen, L. B., Knudsen, N. Ø., Nielsen, L. D., Ekelund, K., ... & Sparr, E. (2016). The effects of polar excipients transcutol and dexpanthenol on molecular mobility, permeability, and electrical impedance of the skin barrier. Journal of colloid and interface science, 479, 207-220

4. Wohlrab, J., & Kreft, D. (2014). Niacinamide-mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 27(6), 311-315.

5. Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524-531.

6. Hollinger, J. C., Angra, K., & Halder, R. M. (2018). Are natural ingredients effective in the management of hyperpigmentation? A systematic review. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 11(2), 28.

7. Castanedo-Cazares, J. P., Lárraga-Piñones, G., Ehnis-Pérez, A., Fuentes-Ahumada, C., Oros-Ovalle, C., Smoller, B. R., & Torres-Álvarez, B. (2013). Topical niacinamide 4% and desonide 0.05% for treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 29-36.

8. Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., Chhoa, M., Matsubara, A., Miyamoto, K., ... & Boissy, R. E. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20-31.

9. Greatens, A., Hakozaki, T., Koshoffer, A., Epstein, H., Schwemberger, S., Babcock, G., ... & Boissy, R. E. (2005). Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible. Experimental dermatology, 14(7), 498-508.

10. Markovics, A., Tóth, K. F., Sós, K. E., Magi, J., Gyöngyösi, A., Benyó, Z., ... & Oláh, A. (2019). Nicotinic acid suppresses sebaceous lipogenesis of human sebocytes via activating hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor 2 (HCA2). Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine, 23(9), 6203-6214.

11. Elsner, P., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics. CRC Press.

12. Bierman, J. C., Laughlin, T., Tamura, M., Hulette, B. C., Mack, C. E., Sherrill, J. D., ... & Oblong, J. E. (2020). Niacinamide mitigates SASP‐related inflammation induced by environmental stressors in human epidermal keratinocytes and skin. International journal of cosmetic science, 42(5), 501-511.

13.Shahmoradi, Z., Iraji, F., Siadat, A. H., & Ghorbaini, A. (2013). Comparison of topical 5% nicotinamid gel versus 2% clindamycin gel in the treatment of the mild-moderate acne vulgaris: A double-blinded randomized clinical trial. Journal of Research in Medical Sciences: The Official Journal of Isfahan University of Medical Sciences, 18(2), 115.

After cleansing, apply it all over the face. If you are using it together with Vitamin C serum, apply the Vitamin C serum first and then apply the B5 serum to maximize the absorption of both vitamins. Gently massage to ensure proper absorption.